I remember seeing a Facebook post on a random Tuesday a decade or so ago. It had women in sarees with a caption that read: “Whatever you can do they can do it and in a saree too.” As someone who was still struggling to drape a saree, and even more so to walk in them, it sounded far-fetched to think of saree being a practical garment. Perhaps I was also still holding on to my remnants of a westernised notion of what practicality meant. But back then, for the life of me, I couldn’t fathom how a saree could be casual attire that stood the worst of the modern demands on the daily. It wasn't until I took a look at those beyond my immediate circle that I was able to get past my conditioning.
For ages, South Asian women have moved around in sarees and adapted them for whatever movements their lives demanded. But what and how they chose to make the saree their own, did matter. For peak summers, cottons were favoured; to traverse muddy grounds, mid-length draping was adapted, and the list could go on. The last decade has also shown a marked adaptation of sarees as casual wear. Modern Indians are choosing sarees and wearing them in manners that suit their lifestyle. From brands like Suta Bombay crafting a wide range of handcrafted sarees that can be draped a million ways, to the subject of this article: Shweta Kapur’s 431-88 pre-draped sarees that have been contemporised through design innovation.
The Delhi-based designer, in her previous feature with Homegrown talked about how the pre-draped saree played a pivotal role in the brand’s growth. During the initial days of her brand, Shweta toyed with the notion of designing polished athleisure, and though this collection is not exactly athleisure, it was inspired by her love for movement and fitness as well. Shweta mentioned, “I really enjoy my workout time, whether it’s running, animal flow, or kettlebell exercises, and this passion naturally influenced the designs. So, while it’s not athleisure, the PLAY collection reflects my connection to movement and blends it with premium pret”
It is befitting that after taking a moment to reflect, 431-88 is back with a collection that sinks deeper into its desire to dress the free-spirited jet-setters, who are constantly on the move. The collection note for the newly launched ‘PLAY’ collection reads, “This is a collection that celebrates the rhythm of daily life, focusing on the moments in between where personal evolution and self-care thrive. Inspired by the concept of movement, each piece embodies a fluidity that reflects the diverse practices integrated into our everyday routines, from AM to PM.”
To learn more about PLAY, a collection that features breezy laser cuts, essential denim, and minimal embroidery on light, non-creasing fabrics, we caught up with designer Shweta Kapur. The collection of black and white pieces, with a few washed blues and chocolate brown pieces as well, are designed to be versatile and timeless, effortlessly balancing function and form. When speaking to Homegrown, Shweta shared how the PLAY collection was designed to create a contemporary line that truly embodies the essence of 431-88. For PLAY, they put the focus on the signature fabrics of 431-88, including premium suiting fabrics like denim and jersey.
“Each fabric was chosen to reflect different aspects of the brand's personality: denim represents strength, jersey symbolises adaptability, and the ability to transition between styles and suiting fabrics serve as foundational pieces that convey reliability and versatility. Overall, these fabric choices highlight the collection's core themes of movement and versatility.”
Shweta Kapur, Founder & Designer, 431-88
The collection that embodies the essence of the brand would be incomplete without the 431-88 take on traditional essentials like Sarees, Kurtas, and even the Ganji. For the PLAY collection, Shweta mentioned how they reimagined these pieces through the 431-88 lens to suit the modern Indian lifestyle. As is typical of the label, the devil is in the details. “The kurta features a distinctive strip on the side, which can be either embroidered or adorned with patent leather," explains Shweta. "The Ganji, one of my favourite pieces, incorporates a striking strip of patent leather on the front. The saree includes a sophisticated laser-cut detail on the pallu, making it not only stylish but also exceptionally easy to move in.”
Designed for effortless mobility, Shweta mentioned that the models were even able to run in them during the shoot. From the pre-draped Kaai saree crafted in luxurious crepe with a side slit and an attached pallu, to the Denim Blazer without sleeves, and a flared peplum silhouette: Shweta was ecstatic about how well these pieces captured the 431-88 spirit. You can move freely, it won’t crush throughout the day and there's a refreshing air of playfulness embedded into every stich.
You can follow 431-88 here.