Growing up in Kerala with a father who spent his formative years in Tamil Nadu meant many things. I didn’t know that he often switched between the languages and I’d picked up words that I thought were Malayalam, only to realise when I entered the formal educational system that, it was in fact Tamil. We listened to as many Tamil songs and watched as many Tamil movies as we did Malayalam ones, if not more. The Jamakkalam carpets that might still be unknown to many of my fellow Malayalis, graced varying corners of our house. Looking back, I realise that my father had somehow suffused his love for the place he found himself, in the home he built for our family.
Years later, I had forgotten all about the colourful woven carpet that I grew up lazing around on. Well, until I encountered the term ‘Jamakkalam’ in connection to the newly minted fashion brand Erode Clothing in 2021. Founded by Mayank Bhutra, a young entrepreneur originally from Erode, where the GI-Tagged ‘Bhavani Jamakkalam’ is made. Now based out of Mumbai, the label has been breathing new life into the beloved craft and elevating it to create young, contemporary attire. Their collection includes boxy jackets with Jamakkalam details, meticulous hand-woven shirts and crop tops, and even 4-pocket jeans in cotton denim with vibrant 3D jamakkalam motifs on panels down the sides.
Recently, Erode Clothing did a stunning editorial campaign that was styled by Karur-origin stylist Kanmani, which was captured in her hometown as well. Speaking to Homegrown India, she shared, “Erode Clothing is more than just a brand; it's a community dedicated to preserving the beautiful, dying art of Jamakkalam. They continuously produce unique and meaningful creations to showcase the exquisite crafts of Tamil Nadu, mainly Jamakkalam, which often don't receive the recognition they deserve. Erode’s mission is to provide differentiated content that challenges the norms of the fashion industry, bringing attention and respect to these traditional weaves.”
Captured by Nishanth Shiva and Loganathan Ravichandran, the label’s ‘Back in Time’ long coat and ‘End of the Beginning’ denim from their Nammakaalam collection adorned the models, Sanjana Agnihotri and Yaksha, for the shoot. The makeup and hair featured bright shadows, and hairstyles reminiscent of Tami lead actors of yore and was created by artist Sathya Bhama. The creative director and designer of Erode Clothing, Sakshi Singh was also an integral part of the shoot.
For Kanmani who finds deep joy in transforming people through styling and creative direction, the editorial was a chance for her to create something that could capture the essence and beauty of Jamakkalam and Tamil culture.
From the double braids with ribbon to koppu earrings, mookuthi, pottu, and even the red and green embedded gold necklace, there are a lot of truly Tamil influences featured in the series, which is something that the stylist mentions as a feature across her body of work.
“Growing up surrounded by these traditions and way of life has shaped my passion and purpose. Times change, and people sometimes mock or forget these small yet significant details like ribbons, bindi, koppu, and kolusu that we grew up with. I want to celebrate and take pride in my culture and that's also the essence of Erode Clothing. It's all about honouring our roots and heritage, and that's exactly what I tried to bring up in our shoots.”Kanmani, Stylist & Creative Director
When talking about honouring heritage, it is important to know that the location of the shoot, Karur, has been written about, by great Tamil writers and has been a hub of textile production, especially for export. Kanmani underlined the significance of the location and talked about how in ancient times, it was called Karuvoor and was mentioned in scriptures. Located on the banks of Amaravathi and Kaveri, one of the key landmarks is the Pasupatheeswarar Temple, which is more than 2,000 years old.
Because of its deep history and cultural heritage, Karur was the ideal location for the shoot. “The streets and riverbanks are filled with memories and stories," she explains. "It is a great place to capture the essence of our culture. We used locations in and around these places to truly capture the essence of Erode Clothing and the thought behind this editorial.”
You can follow Kanmani here.
You can follow Erode Clothing here.
If you enjoyed reading this, here's more from Homegrown:
Ishani Das' Photoseries Positions The Red Hibiscus As A Symbol Of Fierce Femininity
Spurthi Gowda's Latest Collection Is An Ode To The Resilient Spirit Of The Sunflower
Divya Balakrishnan’s Editorial Powerfully Contrasts South Indian Tradition and Modernity