Villagers splashing buttermilk and gathering in traditional attire at Dayara Bugyal for The Butter Festival. Rahul Singh, Instagram
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High Above The Clouds, This Uttarakhand Village Plays Holi With Fresh Butter

In the meadows of Dayara Bugyal, locals gather above the clouds to celebrate their pastoral roots with fresh butter.

Rhea Budhraja

This piece explores Anduri Utsav, a traditional pastoral festival celebrated every August in Raithal, Uttarkashi. Instead of colours, villagers gather in the high-altitude meadow of Dayara Bugyal to play Holi with fresh butter, milk, and buttermilk, honoring their cattle, expressing gratitude to mountain deities, and celebrating the seasonal return from alpine grazing grounds.

At eleven thousand feet in Uttarkashi, where the tree line gives way to open green slopes, lies Dayara Bugyal. Travelers know this alpine pasture for its expansive views of the Gangotri range. Every August, as the heavy monsoon rains ease across northern India, the grass fills with a celebration known as Anduri Utsav. Locals call it the Butter Festival — a day when villagers gather above the clouds to play Holi with fresh butter, milk, and churned buttermilk.

The cadence of life in these valleys revolves around the movement of livestock between mountain pastures. The villagers of Raithal, set in the terraced slopes below, have practiced seasonal herding across the Garhwal Himalayas for generations. When early summer thaws the upper reaches, shepherds pack their provisions and guide cattle to the summer pastures. For four full months, livestock grazes on nutrient-dense alpine herbs and wild mountain grass while the men live in stone huts called chanis. By late summer, before the autumn chill sets in, the animals return home healthier, stronger, and producing thick, rich milk.

Anduri Utsav marks this seasonal homecoming where it offers gratitude to Lord Krishna, the divine protector of cattle, and to Bugyal Mata, the deity of the meadow who guarded the herds from predators, sudden blizzards, and illness throughout the grazing period. The event brings families together to celebrate the survival of their livestock and the food security provided by the animals.

Morning begins with traditional rituals. A local priest leads prayers near an altar built directly on the grass, offering grains and flowers while giving thanks for the health of the cattle and the abundance of milk. Once formal prayers end, celebration takes over the entire meadow. Hands reach into metal buckets and brass tubs, scooping up fresh yellow butter to rub onto cheeks and foreheads. Pots of cool buttermilk splash across crowds, soaking traditional garments in white cream.

Groups form wide circles across the pasture to perform regional folk dances like Dhimai and Mithi. Nearby, young men form human pyramids to reach a clay pot of curd swaying from a tall wooden frame, mimicking the traditional Dahi-Handi rituals seen across northern India. Laughter fills the air as people slip on the wet grass, throwing handfuls of cream at neighbours and visitors alike.

Folk Garhwali drummers at the festival.

Elders in the village explain that the tradition originally involved throwing cow dung at one another — a practice connected to historic farm life where manure served as a vital natural fertiliser for crops and pastures. As the decades went on and the festival attracted folks from neighbouring valleys, the community shifted toward dairy products. They swapped manure for butter, preserving the playful spirit of the ritual while making it welcoming for all attendees.

Word of this mountain festival has spread beyond Garhwal in recent times, drawing trekkers and travelers looking for regional cultural events. Outdoor enthusiasts often combine the festival with multi-day trekking routes across the Uttarkashi district.

Despite growing outside interest, the tradition stays tied to the village council and local families. The butter comes directly from the milk produced by cattle grazing on those exact slopes. There are no synthetic powders, commercial chemicals, or plastic waste left behind on the meadow — just a community celebrating the land that sustains them.

The festival concludes as the sun dips behind the snow-capped peaks. Villagers collect their belongings, pack their brass drums, and begin the walk down to Raithal alongside their cattle. In a world increasingly detached from seasonal cycles and rural origins, Anduri Utsav stands out as a living testament to mountain heritage. It remains messy, joyful, and grounded in the ways of Himalayan life.

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