While sitting in the beautiful Lila Art Cafe in Fort Kochi and write this feature, I can hear the sound of children play football on the Parade ground right outside the double door of the old restored godown. Around 5PM in the evening on a weekday, I notice someone typing frantically away on my left, while someone else is reading leisurely on my right. I can’t help but be enthralled by the plurality of Kochi, the place that I call home.
Whether you choose to find respite and inspiration in the quiet lanes of Fort Kochi, have observed the fleeting life and times of the people rushing around Vytilla Mobility hub on a busy week day, or you live on the quiet outskirts and come in for a dose of the city life when you need it, Kochi is many things to many people. For many creatives, Kochi is much more than a city: it is a living, breathing, ever-evolving muse.
Perhaps it is the cosmopolitan culture that blends seamlessly with deep cultural roots that coexist in the slow lanes of the outer limits of the city and the fast-growing metropolitan area in the middle that makes it a space for constant learning and creation. It is a city that has become home to creatives from nearby towns who moved here to realise their dreams. It is also the slow hometown that some others moved back to, after long stints in other cities. Depending on the life you choose to live here, Kochi is a place that can perhaps bring one face to face with their most authentic self.
In this edition of Homegrown’s ‘Cities that Inspire’ series, we spoke to creatives from varying disciplines who have come to call Kochi their home and dove into how the city has inspired their unique body of work.
The erstwhile Kochi Biennale Shop curator, fashion designer and entrepreneur, Annah Chakola is someone who moved away from Kochi, but eventually found her way back home to the city. Annah with her love for design, curation, and storytelling has been working with a wide array of artisans from across India to extend beyond her personal brand, and has helped many designers in sourcing and production of lifestyle products. Recently, Annah opened up her personal store that is simple but befittingly titled ‘kada’ (shop) in Fort Kochi.
Kochi means different things to different people. For some it is Fort Kochi and the art hub, for some others it is a place of progress and reinvention in Kerala. What does Kochi mean to you?
Kochi is home. It's the appreciation of familiarity. For me it's a city that symbolizes having been away and returning. It's about coming full circle.
Do you see a glimpse of Kochi in the work that you create? How has it impacted your creativity?
Any environment you live in tends to impact your creative senses. That being said, there is a certain vibrancy yet serenity to Kochi and that contradiction does impact my work, emotions, and creativity.
What is the one place in Kochi that inspires you; that one place that keeps your imaginative and artistic creativity flowing?
The home/studio space my partner and I have created. This space is a melange of everything that constantly keeps me inspired. Personally, it is unpretentious and constantly evolving.
What’s your favourite spot in Kochi and why?
I grew up in Kochi, left for 25 years to find myself and now I'm back on home turf. I'm comfortable in many nooks around Kochi. My most favourite place is Fort Kochi for its history and old soul but I also love the markets of Broadway and Thevara with the view of the backwaters that constantly reminds me to flow. This locale where I grew up is now a residential hub but it's still home turf to me. I feel that I am truly myself in Kochi. It is unfiltered and any place that allows one the room to have one’s "masks off" is my favourite spot. But with that said, having experienced the highs and lows of life, I live my life with my masks off anyway and Kochi is my favourite place to just be.
You can follow Annah here.
A classically trained vocalist, and singer-songwriter who writes in both Tamil and Malayalam, Vaishakh Somnath is someone who moved to Kochi from Malappuram and found a place for himself and his art here. Drawing deeply from old Malayalam and Tamil songs, while also staying true to his unique sensibilities, he is an indie musician with technical know-how to boot. When he is not writing, composing, or teaching music, he often shares his personal experiments with music through Instagram - from blending natural sounds with his raw vocals to inspired word play and a deeper look into the technicalities of crafting one’s own music.
Kochi means different things to different people, for some it is Fort Kochi and the art hub, for some others it is a place of progress and reinvention in Kerala. What does Kochi mean to you?
Kochi means opportunities and cultural amalgamation for me. Being from a small town like Malappuram, I see Kochi as a place of opportunities, not just in terms of work but also in terms of meeting new people who can widen my worldviews. Kochi has been a place where I have found the most like-minded folks and folks who push the limits of my comfort zone.
Do you see a glimpse of Kochi in the work that you create? How has it impacted your creativity?
Not yet. My work has always been a reflection of the experiences I acquire while travelling, meeting new people and all. In fact, the alternative-lifestyle- themed, 'Thevai EP' - my first record - reflects the ideologies/philosophies I was attracted to while travelling. Kochi has always been the place I come back to after acquiring all those experiences, though the journey kind of started from Kochi. Interestingly, Kochi has never featured in my work. I'm still thinking about this. But Kochi opened doors for me in terms of concerts, not just playing concerts but also going to them regularly, something which was not possible in my hometown. I have found really great friends to discuss life with, and musicians to jam with and later work with, which inspired me to get better when it comes to my own art practice.
What is the one place in Kochi that inspires you; that one place that keeps your imaginative and artistic creativity flowing?
It's tough to choose one place, or I'd say most places have got good memories and difficult memories associated with them. I think that's the beauty of it. I lived in Kochi for 6 years from 2016 to 2021. The places that used to cheer me up turned out to be places of boredom when the lockdown of 2020 hit. At the end of 2021 it was out of boredom I decided to leave the city and travel without a base for some time. That "some" time became 2 years and now it's been only 3 months since I moved back to Kochi. Several factors brought me back here.
Now when I think about it, I do feel home in Kochi because that's what happens when you live in a particular place long enough, I guess. The memories get overlapped and new memories keep on adding to each spot, but the place remains the same. I feel it's like taking a walk at the Kaloor stadium round. After two rounds, I start noticing a few faces repeating. After say, the fourth round, I feel like I know them. After another round - bam - they are gone! And then new faces start appearing.
What’s your favourite spot in Kochi and why?
This is very unusual of me. I'm not a beach person, I'm an out-and-out mountain person, but I have felt sitting on the rocks of Fort Kochi beach has been therapeutic. It also could be because of the company I had whenever I went there. Also I realise now that, although I'm a solo person who has roamed around mostly solo, the places in Kochi are special because of the people I went there with. I guess it's about the people more than the places. That's why a few friends' houses also come to my mind right now. Those aren't "spots", but those are my safe spaces.
When I think about it, I feel there are some spots which I visit during a particular time of the year. November-December time at Tripunithura temple for the kacheris, January my birthday month at Fort Kochi/Mattancherry if it's the Biennale year, and late night walks at Queens' walkway during Monsoon are a few that I can think of.
You can follow Vaishakh here.
While Vanessa Meister isn’t originally from Kochi, she is someone who has made it her home. She embodies its spirit and captures it beautifully through art. From paintings and paper cut installations to colouring books and collaborations with renowned brands like Neytt, she creates stunning original pieces. This artist with a love for maximalism and bright colours is someone who has borne witness to the changing face of Kochi in the last two decades. From Vypin Beach to Vytilla Mobility Hub, she holds onto memories of the different parts of Kochi through the changing times, all while capturing its essence through her varied projects, wherever she can.
Kochi means different things to different people, for some it is Fort Kochi and the art hub, for some others it is a place of progress and reinvention in Kerala. What does Kochi mean to you?
Kochi is very close to my heart - it’s a home I found away from my place of origin in Switzerland. I feel the city and I have evolved together over the years. When I first came to Kochi in 2005, it was hard to find pasta - now we have a metro, a skatepark, cocktail lounges, and access to a lot more. People are also opening up to change and new ideas. Over time these small steps make a difference, especially for the younger generation and I love seeing this move forward.
Do you see a glimpse of Kochi in the work that you create? How has it impacted your creativity?
I have worked on projects about or directly inspired by Kochi and Kerala you can say. This includes a set of postcards for French Toast, a Fort Kochi-inspired colouring book, and I recently did an illustration of Durbar Hall for a client and a set of Indian classical dance cards. Kochi definitely gives me a lot of visual and cultural clues to work with and I feel there’s still so much I want to explore aross local sweets, plants and trees, fabric prints and patterns. There's always a riot of colours and shapes to keep me on my toes. I hope I get a chance to impact the city too through my work. I see it as an exchange - I take inspiration and give back in a meaningful way.
What is the one place in Kochi that inspires you; that one place that keeps your imaginative and artistic creativity flowing?
Broadway for sure with its shops and alleys. I love sourcing materials and I always feel excited in a hardware or a fabric store; I like being where the action is happening. If I need inspiration I’ll definitely head to Broadway in the early morning and be out before the crowd comes in. Next stop would be Phoenix Art Shop, all three floors of art supplies and paper. Finally, I’ll have a coffee at Oottupura and plan what to do with everything I bought. I think more than the places, it’s the people I meet and the conversations I have which keep me inspired and excited about new projects.
What’s your favourite spot in Kochi and why?
I have many favourites which I visit in rotation: Vypin beach early in the morning, Central Park for slacklining, Fort Kochi for the touristy feel, Kakkanad Chittilappilly Park for the kids, Forum mall, MG Road for shopping, and Panampilly Nagar for work and coffee.
But my favourite, and maybe not the most glamorous, would be Vyttila for emotional reasons. It’s a junction, from there you can go anywhere - north all the way up to Mumbai or south to Kanyakumari. I took my first bus trip out of Vyttila hub when I initially came to the city; my kids were born in Vyttila and I have seen it change over the years now with the fly over. I don’t care how messy it is: when I'm coming back from a trip, when I reach Vyttila, I know I’m home.
You can follow Vanessa here.
A fashion stylist and creative director who shuttles between Indian cities but finds her way back to Kochi time and again, Navya Jayamohan aka Kaapi_Stained is someone who seeks to reinterpret familiar motifs in her own unique way through creative styling and photography. From styling a kasavu saree that holds a long-standing legacy in Kerala to stacking up the pieces of jewellery that she has curated from all over the nation in her own way, Navya Jayamohan crafts intricate visual stories through her commercial and editorial projects alike.
Kochi means different things to different people, for some it is Fort Kochi and the art hub, for some others it is a place of progress and reinvention in Kerala. What does Kochi mean to you?
It's been six years since I moved to Kochi for my college internships and since then I have been here on and off. I always find my way back no matter wherever I travel for work and personal projects. Though I have very few colleagues and close connections here, I feel safe and homely as I have been so familiar with the seasons, places, and overall vibe the city holds.
Do you see a glimpse of Kochi in the work that you create? How has it impacted your creativity?
As I have a love-hate relationship with the city. You will not find a vivid visible touch of Kochi in my professional or conceptual works/art but I always try to document my daily life through polaroids and photo stacks that always hold close memories of Kochi.
What is the one place in Kochi that inspires you; that one place that keeps your imaginative and artistic creativity flowing?
The museums, palaces and art galleries we have in Kochi have had a great impact on me from an artistic perspective. I also used to be a regular beach person where I tried to brainstorm and work on my project ideas with a side of some cosy beach views.
What’s your favourite spot in Kochi and why?
Cocoacraft Chocolate Factory is a mini cafe for homely chocolate items. I love the homely feeling of the desert spot, especially during monsoons, where you can just enjoy the rains with a sip of homemade hot chocolate. The new closed-down Teapot Cafe in Fort Kochi used to be my all-time favourite place - it's where I used to go for solo dates while taking a cafe break over my weekends.
You can follow Navya here.
It might have been four years since MC Couper dropped the track ‘Scheme’, but it has remained one of those tracks that truly captured Kochi and its essence and continues to be a favourite for many to this day. But MC Couper aka Shambu Ajith has been dropping incredibly original, culturally rooted hip-hop tracks in Malayalam since then, and has garnered a fan-base that extends far beyond the limits of his native language and state.
Kochi means different things to different people, for some it is Fort Kochi and the art hub, for some others it is a place of progress and reinvention in Kerala. What does Kochi mean to you?
Kochi is a burgeoning metro city and I did not realise how dynamic this place was when I initially moved here for college. This city and its people have played a pivotal role in shaping me as a person and as an artist. Kochi has also been like this hub of creativity for a very long time and continues to be so.
After graduating law school, I had a brief corporate stint in Bangalore. Subsequently, I came back to Kochi to kickstart my rap career. This is the place where I reinvented myself and now, Kochi is home. There are so many hustlers and inspiring artists around and it has opened so many doors for me as an individual as well as an artist.
Do you see a glimpse of Kochi in the work that you create? How has it impacted your creativity?
Absolutely. When I first came here, confidence was on short supply and I was a very conflicted and confused teenager. I've spent almost my entire adult life here and I tap into my reality unabashedly in my songs.
Plus it's such a beautiful city. I feel like we tend to take it for granted sometimes. A city interspersed with rivers with the sea on the side, all this greenery and so much history in the soil. I'd say that it'd be difficult for you to not be inspired as an artist if you're from around here.
Moreover, strictly in terms of how it reflects in my craft: the Kochi slang and its understated swag as well as the sense of humour that people have around here have all massively influenced my writing and it's very evident in my tracks.
What is the one place in Kochi that inspires you; that one place that keeps your imaginative and artistic creativity flowing?
I can't pinpoint a particular place. For me, this city is an explosively dynamic package of cultures, beliefs, history and sheer scenic beauty that gets me to my creative best.
In my initial days here, I had to foray out of my comfort zone to grow and earn whatever I have now. Over the course of that process of learning and unlearning, I found myself getting attached to the city. It is here that I really went all out in pursuit of my dreams, finally got comfortable in my shoes and also met some of my closest friends and collaborators. I worked my socks off here and I'm relishing living my best life in this city. I feel like I'm in my zone as an artist when I am in Kochi thanks to the people and the experiences I have had here.
What’s your favourite spot in Kochi and why?
It's impossible for me to pick one from a variety of things like the movie theatres to the kickass burger joints to the pubs scattered across the city and, also Fort Kochi, Cherai etc. Why? Great food, fun places to hang out, scenic properties to chill when you take some time off. It's a little bit of everything.
You can follow MC Couper here.
A textile designer and self-professed colour enthusiast, Mohamed Hizqeel has found respite and meaning in the slow pace of life that Kochi has to offer. Despite being from Fort Kochi, Hizqeel grew up in other cities, and worked for years in Delhi, until finally moving back to Kochi to pursue his passion for textile-based dyeing and experimentation. Hizqeel’s label, Bakr Society, is a reflection of his keen, passionate study of varying dyeing techniques around the world. He has garnered loyal customers from all over the world through his authentic practice and approach. From age-old Indian Indigo dyeing techniques to the Japanese technique of resist-dyeing using rice paste, Hizqeel is based out of a home workshop in the city and creates stunning, organically dyed and screen-printed pieces that are crafted to age well and last.
Kochi means different things to different people, for some it is Fort Kochi and the art hub, for some others it is a place of progress and reinvention in Kerala. What does Kochi mean to you?
Kochi only means home to me. I was born in Kochi but spent my entire childhood away from it. For me, Kochi was always a nostalgic place, the destination of my cherished vacations growing up, and a place I never wanted to leave. It's the place filled with stories from my father, the backdrop of his memories, and the place I always longed to return to. Kochi is where my heart truly belongs, and it's where I finally wanted to get back to.
Do you see a glimpse of Kochi in the work that you create? How has it impacted your creativity?
I'm not sure if Kochi has impacted my work in ways I notice, but it has certainly given me a space to create. The serene calmness of Kochi is a place where anyone would long to spend time; thinking and creating away from the busy world.
What is the one place in Kochi that inspires you, that one place that keeps your imaginative and artistic creativity flowing?
Knowing that the beach is just a couple of minutes walk away makes me happy.
What’s your favourite spot in Kochi and why?
The beach in Kochi, with its soothing calmness in the wind and the endless sea. It captivates me every time.
You can follow Mohamed here.
A creative director, stylist and photographer whose personal experiments with styling natural elements from leaves to flowers and fruits has become a signature, Caroline Joseph is someone who is the happiest among the greenery of Kochi. While she does commercial projects within the realm of fashion and lifestyle, Caroline has also recently started selling prints of her flora focused photographs as the inspired objets d'art that they are.
Kochi means different things to different people, for some it is Fort Kochi and the art hub, for some others it is a place of progress and reinvention in Kerala. What does Kochi mean to you?
Kochi is home. Kochi is where I feel most at home emotionally. It's comfortable and warm and has all my friends so I wouldn't be able to take that away from what it means to me. It is also a corner of the world where I have found the pace of the city as slow as I like it. It isn't fast paced like the big cities I studied in and not so slow that you feel stuck. It a little nook of the world where I feel inspired and comforted.
Do you see a glimpse of Kochi in the work that you create? How has it impacted your creativity?
It is certainly Kochi's rich flora that inspired my series of portraits. Nature has been the biggest inspiration and also my most used medium and having a lush vibrant spread surrounding me has been what fuels my artistic voice.
What is the one place in Kochi that inspires you; that one place that keeps your imaginative and artistic creativity flowing?
My grandma's garden. My grandmother shares my love for flora and her garden has an exotic range that extends to include both intricately detailed leaves and unkept wildflowers. Being in that space and around her energy, always inspires me.
What’s your favourite spot in Kochi and why?
My favourite spot is Willingdon Island. I lived there for a while and have been visiting since I was child. There's a little walk on the north end of the island, the part where you can walk by the water, where I used to go a lot with my dog, Pepper, to catch the sunset. I love that it is quiet and during the lockdown, that evening walk watching the sky turn into different colours saved my sanity.
You can follow Caroline here.
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