A South Asian Brand is Crafting Jewellery That Reclaims The Kama Sutra Through Adornment

When I watched the Mira Nair movie Kama Sutra: A Tale of Love, I had a very vague idea of what to expect. In all honesty, the movie was one that had been in the periphery of my knowledge and I had high hopes for. I had tucked it away, to watch on a day when it felt right. But when that came about, the movie ended up being an underwhelming watch for me; a tad too exoticised a take for 2025. But there were excerpts from the Kama Sutra, and the art of lovemaking, which when narrated by Rekha, in all her raw sensuality; rooted in her Indianness, that made me go in search of more on the Kama Sutra. How it was far more than the western gaze and the ‘tantric sex guide with 1001 positions’ that it had been reduced to.

The reason I decided to give the movie a watch in the first place was because, while in conversation with Manasvi Bhushan, the founder of the homegrown diasporic lifestyle label Surmeyi, they had let slip that their latest collection was inspired by the seminal Indian text itself. When I spoke to them, they were still in the process of putting together their collection inspired by the art of adornment during lovemaking that is portrayed in the original text. The collection took shape in collaboration with renowned pleasure mythologist Seema Anand, along with AASECT Certified Sex and relationship educator Shan Boodram.

In a blog post titled 'Käma Part 1: How it Started', Surmeyi shares that the idea for the collection began with a conversation between Seema and Shan, where Seema described the Kama Sutra not as a relic, but as choreography: “Lovemaking was a dance,” she said, “and the jewelry, the rhythm.” This perspective inspired the design team led by Seema's deep knowledge of Kama Sutra, to create pieces that are not just ornamental but integral to the movement and rhythm of the body.

The collection’s inception was deeply personal for the founders of Surmeyi. Since its launch last year, they have been crafting lifestyle objects and reclaiming them for how they existed historically: objects to articulate or capture the wearer’s moods, desires, and intentions. They are especially focused on creating jewellery that narrates stories and connects with their patrons at an emotional level. And in that regard, 'Käma' is no exception. The pieces were designed to accentuate the natural human form, complement its movement, and stir a sense of self-awareness and confidence.

This philosophy is reflected in pieces like the Kama Elemental Choker, which celebrates the wearer as an embodiment of the five elements. Its layered motifs, paired with enamel accents in blue, rust, mint, black, and verdant green, symbolise flow, passion, love, mystery, and grace. These motifs also come together to echo the mythological character of Kama, the god of love and his story. It’s also perhaps a befitting homage to human desire, meant to sit close to the skin and move with the wearer’s breath and slightest of movement, in order to both tempt and titillate.

Other pieces, like the waist belt and anklet, draw inspiration from the ghungroo-adorned anklets of classical Indian dancers. These pieces are crafted to move, echoing ancient practices of adornment where they symbolized harmony and connection. The belts are intentionally designed to chime (or not) with movement, offering a multi-sensory reminder of one's sensuality. The gentle chime of the ghungroos as the body sways is a subtle but powerful element of design that can deepen one’s connection to themselves or a partner.

Meanwhile, the layered necklace with spine chains draws inspiration from the seven-layered pearl necklaces mentioned in ancient texts, contemporized with five layers and subtle enamel details representing the five elements. This versatile piece can morph into a body chain, moving down the spine, wrapping around the body like an embrace, making it as bold or as understated as the wearer desires. Even the earring is designed to play with movement and modularity. With detachable danglers that can be mixed, matched, or worn solo, these pieces nod to the Kama Sutra’s art of adornment, where long earrings grazing the cheeks were favored when a woman was on top of her beloved; their sway acting as a guide to the rhythm of passion.

What makes this collection particularly compelling is its transformative nature. The designs can be styled in multiple ways, adapting to the wearer’s intentions, whether to empower oneself or entice a lover. The anklets, for instance, feature detachable ghungroos that allow for silent or jingling steps, depending on the mood. It’s this versatility that embodies the Kama Sutra’s broader philosophy — that adornment is a ritual of self-discovery; a way to channel one’s true desires and embrace the full spectrum of one’s power.

As the founders put it, “Our aim was to create jewellery that is not just an accessory but a part of one’s journey towards self-discovery.

“Kama was born not as an idea, but as a moment. A moment where journeys braided together — Seema’s mythology, Shan’s insights, and Surmeyi’s pursuit,” says the brand. “Jewelry is often made to be seen. Kama is meant to be felt. Every piece serves a purpose — anklets and girdles mark rhythm, earrings signal pace, and necklaces guide touch — each one shaping how a woman moves, how she feels, and how she carries herself. Jewellery becomes an act of self-belonging.”

With this collection, Surmeyi has not only created jewellery but extends an invitation to adorn oneself with intention and to move through the world with the grace and confidence of being still and whole within oneself. And perhaps this is how the Kama Sutra’s original spirit is being reclaimed, making it less about spectacle and more about the profound, personal act of self-adornment and self-love.

Follow Surmeyi here.

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